Elizabeth David (1913-92) brought the colour and flavours of France and the Mediterranean to a grey post-war Britain where there was still food rationing. She provided an inspiration for cooks ready to move into a new world. In the Foreword to At Elizabeth David’s Table are many tributes from today’s chefs, even those who never met her; those tributes make clear her importance to the revival of British cuisine. Those chefs are aware of the debt they owe Elizabeth David and At Elizabeth David’s Table shows she was an accomplished writer whose articles still bear scrutiny in the twenty-first century.
Good Food with Honest and Simple Presentation
The book is a substantial hardback with a laminated cover, no dust jacket to get spoiled for a book that many will use in the kitchen every day. The recipes are mostly given a two page spread; the recipe on one page and full-page colour photograph of the dish on the other. The photographs do the food full justice with none of the three-dimensional art of the fine-dining restaurant or food stylist presentation; just good food simply presented with an honest elegance. Her seminal works originally had to rely on a few line drawings; I think she would be pleased with the look of this new book of her work.
As the subtitle, Her very best everyday recipes, suggests this is food for family cooking. Many of the dishes can be prepared quickly after a day’s work. Many can be served straight from the cooking dish and so lend themselves to convenient family dining. Indeed many of the dishes will also allow the working couple or individual to eat well without resorting to takeaways or pre-prepared “ready meals”.
As much of her writing shows, the social aspects of food were an important part of Elizabeth David’s thinking. Although billed as everyday cooking, At Elizabeth David’s Table provides dishes that will not be out of place for more formal dining; but the dishes are ideal for informal sharing of food with close friends and family, perhaps the best way to enjoy food.
Gifted Cook and Gifted Writer
At Elizabeth David’s Table is more than another book of recipes. It also includes many of Elizabeth David’s articles, which are less about cooking and more about the enjoyment of food. The writing is good and still works today, a lifetime on in many cases. This is as much a book for the gourmande as for the cook. Those who love food will enjoy her comments and opinions; she avoids the pomposity and pretentiousness of much food writing and many restaurant menus.
Anyone who loves food, loves cooking or preferably enjoys both should keep this book to hand. It is a bible for preparation of inspiring meals; and it is a book that to be enjoyed between meals. It has certainly inspired me and given clearer focus to my own writing and photography.
At Elizabeth David’s Table, Her Very Best Everyday Recipes (2010, ISBN: 978-0-718-15475-2)by Elizabeth David is published in hardback by Michael Joseph, an imprint of Penguin, at £25.
Martin P Wilson - Martin is a director of major business change & turnaround consultant by profession but a widely published writer & photographer by ...
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